Treating Acne With Oils: Heal Your Fatty Acid-Deficient Skin

Tuesday, January 12, 2016


We're all used to hearing about companies like Proactiv as being one of the few defenses against acne, but their are deep-rooted causes that are often overlooked.

It may seem strange, a fatty acid deficiency causing your acne? The truth is, acne sufferers have unbalanced skin.

What the deficiency is

Our skin is primarily made up of lipids such as essential fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol, and plays a crucial role in our skin's barrier function.

It has been shown in studies that those with acne have abnormally low levels of linoleic fatty acid in their skin, which is an omega-6 essential fatty acid.

"When linoleic acid is not present or is present at much-reduced levels, sebum is produced with oleic acid, which is denser, more likely to cause follicular blockage, and is irritating to the skin" - Source 

Oleic fatty acid or omega-9 fatty acid, is problematic for those that have acne or are prone to breakouts, and will make the conditions worse. The skin tends to be greasier, pores become clogged, and it has fewer anti-inflammatory and protective properties when the sebum in the skin is comprised of mainly oleic acid.

On top of that, GLA (gamma-linolenic acid, or omega-6) and ALA (alpha-linolenic acid, or omega-3) have anti-inflammatory properties and may help reduce acne symptoms - Source, Source

These deficiencies can be healed internally and topically

Dietary supplementation of GLA and omega-3 fatty acids can significantly decrease inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions. - Source

An easy way to treat acne is through topical application of linoleic acid. This study showed a 25% reduction in the size of microcomedones over a one month period.

How to topically treat a fatty acid deficiency

So, then what is the answer to balancing out acne-prone skin? Carrier oils. They're oils that can be used on the skin, are either edible or inedible, and come from a variety of sources such as vegetables, fruits, nuts, and seeds. Carrier oils are mainly made up of fatty acids, with linoleic and oleic usually being the most abundant.

It may seem counter-intuitive, but oils are your new best friends! This is where you'll get the healthiest dose of linoleic acid your skin needs.

Oils high in linoleic and low in oleic acids are considered "drying" oils, meaning they absorb quickly into the skin without leaving a sheen, and are more beneficial for oily and of course acne-prone skin, versus high oleic oils. I know, oils that reduce oiliness on the skin?? It's true!

Oils high in oleic and low in linoleic acids are your olive and avocado oils. They're heavier than high linoleic oils, take longer to absorb, and are typically more beneficial for those with dry skin. However, they can come at a cost by causing breakouts and making the condition of acne worse.

Carrier oils for acne-prone skin

It can be hard to distinguish which oils are higher in linoleic than oleic acid. I've made a list of oils below that contain high amounts of linoleic acid with low amounts of oleic acid, with their corresponding percentages.

You may want to experiment with mixing different oils together if certain ones aren't moisturizing enough, or if you want the added benefits of omega-3 and GLA.

Oils high in linoleic and low in oleic fatty acids

*Some of the oils may contain GLA, and/or omega-3.

Evening primrose oil - 72.6% linoleic: 8.4% oleic: 9.1% GLA

Safflower oil (high linoleic variety) - 68 - 85% linoleic: 8 - 30% oleic

Grapeseed oil - 70.6% linoleic: 16.2% oleic

Hemp seed oil - 51.96% linoleic: 9.85% oleic: 10.07% omega-3

Pumpkin seed oil - 57.2% linoleic: 23.3% oleic

Black cumin seed oil - 55.6% linoleic: 22.6% oleic

Rosehip seed oil - 44.1% linoleic: 13.9% oleic: 33.9% omega-3

Soybean oil - 52.97% linoleic: 22.72% oleic: 6.95% omega-3

Borage seed oil - 38.8% linoleic: 17.9% oleic: 20.1% GLA

Oils slightly higher in linoleic than oleic fatty acids

Kuikui nut oil - 39.8% linoleic: 25.4% oleic: 25.6% omega-3

Sesame oil - 45.69% linoleic: 39.21% oleic


P. acnes is a bacteria that has been linked to acne. Tea tree essential oil is a strong antibacterial, and a few drops can be added to carrier oils for its added benefits.

Buying Organic

It's important to buy certified organic oils that have been cold-pressed (extracted using a low heat) from reliable sources. Non-organic oils are usually refined, contain pesticides and have a completely different fatty acid and nutrient profile than organic varieties. In fact, some non-organic oils on the market have even been found to contain harmful chemicals.

I personally buy most of my oils from Mountain Rose Herbs. Most of what they sell is certified organic, and they offer the highest quality and cost-effective ingredients I have found so far. All of the percentages of fatty acids above are provided by Mountain Rose Herbs and are unique to their own products.

Healthy Tip: A great way of effectively cleansing your face without leaving it dry or irritated is by washing it with oil! Cleansing with high linoleic oils helps to remove bacteria and impurities. Check out my post on the Oil Cleansing Method, and how it can benefit your skin.

I would love to know if you've used any oils for reducing acne, breakouts, or oiliness, and how it worked out for you!

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